Buttonhole-sewing machine



(No Model.) 3 sheets-sheet A1.

' J. T. HOGAN.

BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

huw/110i' No Model.) 3 sheets-sheet 2.

J. T. HOGAN.

BUTTONHOLB SEWING MAGHINE.

Patented Jan. 4,1898

(No Mod-e1.) 3 sheets-sheet a.

J.T.H0GAN. BUTTONHOLE SEWING MACHINE.

No. 596,593. Y y Patented Jav11.4,1898.

.PATENT FFICE.

JAMEs rr. II'OGA'NQOE JERsEY CITY, NE'w JERsEY, AssICNOR To YTHE NAfrIONAL MACHINE COMPANY, OE NEW YORK.

BU'ITTONHOLE-SEWING MACHINE.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent N o. 596,593, dated January 4, `1898.

v Application filed February 17l 1894. Serial No. 500,542. (No model.)

To @ZZ whom t may concern.:

Be it known that I, JAMES T. HOGAN, of Jersey City, Hudson county, and State of New Jersey, have invented a certain new and useful Improvement in ButtOnhole-Sewing Machines, of which the following is a specification. Y

I will describe a machine embodying my limprovement and th en'point ou t the novel features in the claims.

In the accompanying drawings, Figure l is a plan of a buttOnhole-sewing mechanism embodying my improvement. Fig. 2 is a vertical section of the same, taken as indicated by the dotted line moc, Fig. l. Fig. 3 is a vertical section taken at the plane of the dotted line y y, Fig. 1. Fig. 4 is a top view of a compound slide comprised in the mechanism.V Fig. 5 is a vertical section taken at the plane of the dotted line .z z, Fig. l. Fig. 6 is a side elevation of a complete machine embodying the improvement and also having a cutting mechanism. Fig. 7 is a transverse vertical section ofthe machine,but certain parts which might beshown in this view are omitted. Fig. Sis a diagrammatic view showing the arrangement of the stitches produced by the mechanism along the sides and across the ends of a buttonhole, the stitches being spread apart. For the sake of clearness the barring-stitches in this figure are also represented as being displaced7 in the direction of the buttonhole, from their correct position. As produced by the operation of the machine, the barringstitches will lie close together, presenting more or less of a hunched appearance.

Similar letters of reference designate corresponding parts -in all the figures.

A designates a sewing-machine head, which may be of any suitable form. As shown, it has a base-plate a and a horizontal arm a. At the end lof the arm is Iitted a verticallyreciprocating needle-bar, which is provided with a needle B, and adjacent to this needlebar a vertically-reciprocating cutter-bar C is fitted to the end of the arm. At the lower end of this cutter-bar is a cutter C. In the present instance the cutter-bar is capable of a rotary or Oscillating` movement as well as a vertically-reciprocating movement, the object of the rotary or oscillating movement being for the purpose of engaging or disengaging-the cutter-bar with a depressor working in harmony with the needle-bar and which may, in fact, be attached to the needle-bar. The rotary or oscillating movement of the cutter-bar is produced by means of a rod C2.

My invention has nothing to do with either the needle-bar mechanism or the cutter-bar mechanism, and hence the allusion to these parts is merely incidental to a full description of a machine embodying my improvement.

To facilitate anunderstanding of the mech- `anismembodying my improvement, it may be well for me to premise that the object of the improvement is to provide for making at the ends of the two rows of side stitches barring-stitches, and preferably these will be double the length of the side stitches. It must be understood, however, that they may be less than double or more than double the length of the side stitches.

In the present example of my improvement I use a cloth-clamp for holding and feeding the material in which the buttonhole is .to be formed, and suchv cloth-clamp may be of any suitable form. p

D designates awell-known form of clothclamp, composed of a cloth-carrying plate d, a foot d', an 'arm d2, supporting the foot and connected by a hinge d3 to a bracket on the shank d4 ofthe cloth-carrying plate and forced downwards by means of a cam-lever d5.

The shank ot the cloth-carrying plate d is connected to the under side of a feed-slide block E, which is shown as made of rectangular form and is fitted to work within a groove in a change-plate F, the movement of said block within the groove of the changeplate being in the direction of the length of a buttonhole and serving to produce the feed of the material in that direction.

The feed-slide block E is shown `as deriving its motion from a Crank E', which maybe 95 made in the form of a screw-bolt capable of being clamped to thecdges of a slot e in a feed-disk E2, made in the form of a toothed gear-wheel. The slot e is located diametrically of the feed-disk, and hence the crank F.

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may be adjusted radially of the feed-disk to produce a greater or less traverse of the feedslide block suitable for buttonholes of differ-- which have been modied for the purpose of my improvement I will refer to the means whereby the to-and-fro or zigzag motion of the cloth-clamp is produced. Y

The change-plate F has a shank f, which is fitted to slide in bearings g on the vibrating plate G. The change -.plate and vibrating plate may move together and in the same manner transversely to the length of the buttonhole and for the purpose of producing the motion necessary for the two rows of side stitches, which are severally composed of depth and edge stitches. Of course the changeplate carries with it in this movement the feedfslide block E and hence the cloth! clamp.

In my improvement while the long barring.- stitches are being made the change-plate receives a different motion from that which the vibrating plate has vduring the same time. I do not mean that its motion is differently positioned, but that the range of movement is greater, and so much greater, indeed, that, generally speaking, it will be about ldouble the movement which ithas with the vibrating plate during the forming 4of the side stitches.

present example of my improvement, the vibrating and change plates derive ytheir mo: tion. Motion is imparted to this lever H .by means of acam I. `(Indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 6 and located in the sewing-machine head.)

In the present example of imy improvement the vibrating plate G has a permanent pivotal connection with the lever H, such pivotal connection being formed of a pin or studg', connecting the lever H with lugs g2, .with which the vibrating plate is provided. With regard to the change-plate it is, however,

quite different, in that the .change-.plate has no permanent ,pivotal connection with theilever H, because it has to move different .distances at different times. In .the present example of my improvement this is aecomplished byconnectingthe change-,plate to the vibrating plate and maintaining thisconn-ecf tion during the for-mationof each .of the -two rows of side stitches, after which the `connection is unlocked and a motion different from` that ofthe vibrating plate isgiven the changeplate while the long barring-.stitches are :being .made

Having now, as I think, givena sufficient generaldescriptionof the improvement, Iwill proceed with the detailed description of the particular embodiment `of .the improvement illustrated by the drawings. v

The feed-disk E2 is aiiixed to a short shaft c', which is journaled in the vibrating plate. With the feed-disk or gear-wheel E2 engages a smaller gear-wheel orpinion E4, which is of such size as to have one-half vthe number of teeth of the feed-disk. It is affixed to a short shaft e2, which extends upwardly from it (see Eig. 3) and is journaled in a bracket E5, carried by the vibrating plate G, a screw e3 being engaged with a tapped hole in the upper end of the shaft and having a head which extends over the bearing in the bracket.

Preferably a friction-washer of leather e4 will be interposed between the head of the screw `ef" and the bracket E5 to prevent any undesired movement of the gear-wheel or pinion E4.

The bottom of the gear-wheel or pinion E4 is provided with a radial slot or opening e5, which is here shown as being formed in a separate piece `of metal attached by screws to said gear-wheel or pinion. With this slot engages a crank-pin or driving-pin j, extending upwardly into it from a feed-wheel J. The feed-wheel J is provided with a tubular hub j', that surrounds a tubular hub j2, extending upwardly from a disk J', which is fastened to the vibrating plate G by means of `screws kor otherwise. The tubular hub jg therefore forms astationary stud, about which which is itted to a screw f3, fastened to a pawl-lever J3. A spring j4 holds the pawl normally in engagement with ratchet-teeth H designates Aa lever from which, in ther on the periphery of the feed-wheel. The pawl-lever J3 has a tubular h-ub j5, which surrounds the tubular hub j' of 'the feed-wheel J and ts within a circular hole in the vibrating plate 1G. -It is therefore pivoted to the vibrating plate and aids in supporting the feed-wheel J.

Motion is imparted-to the pawl-lever by an arm or rod J4, which works in a bed-plate K, which is Aemployed in addition to the bedplate cof the sewing-machine head, so that the buttonhole-feeding mechanism may be made in the form of an attachment. .Motion is imparted to the arm or rod J 4 by means of acrank J5, affixed to a shaft J6. (See particularly Figs. l and 7.)

J7 is a'cam, made inthe form of a bar, loosely mounted at one end .upon the shaft J 6 and 1fastened at the other end by any suitable means-fas, for example, by a clampingscrew J 8 to the outer portion of the crank It is this cam J7 which acts upon the suitably-formed end of the arm orv rod J4. Hence by adjusting the cam relatively to the crank J 5 different degrees of motion may be transmitted from said crank to the arm or rod J4, and hence through the pawl-lever J 3 to the feed-wheel J.

It will of course be understood that the feedf wheel J imparts'motion through the gearfwheel E4 to the feed-disk or gear-wheel E2, and hence through the feed-slide block E to the cloth-clamp for the purpose of feeding IOS IIO

the material in the direction of the length of a'buttonhole.

I will now describe means whereby a dwell is produced after the completion of the row of side stitchesv to the barring-stitches.

L designates a plate located above. the feedwheel J. It is intended to bear upon the top of the tubular hub ,i2 of the disk J', but not upon the top of the feed-wheel J. It is fastened to a shaft L', the fastening in the present instance being accomplished by providing the shaft L with a head and engaging this head by screws with said plate. lVith the lower end of the shaft L is combined a plate Z of larger diameter, so as to support a ratchet-wheel L2, which surrounds the shaft L'. The plate Z may be -fastened to the shaft L by means of a screw. The ratchet-wheel L2 is to be interlocked with the shaft L either by making the bearing-surfaces polygonal or else by means of a spline, so that these two parts will rotate in unison. Between the ratchet-wheel L2 and the non-rotary disk or plate J there will preferably be a frictionwasher of leather or other suitable material Z', the purpose of this washer being to prevent the ratchet-wheel and hence the shaft L and plate L from having any undesirable movement. lith the ratchet-wheel L2is combined a pawl Z2 for the purpose of preventing the ratchet -wheel and hence the shaft L and plate L from rotating in the wrong direction. The plate L is provided with a segment or rim Z3, which extends over the periphery of the feed-wheel J; During the formation of each of the two rows of side stitches the plate L is carried by the feed-wheel J and has no independent movement; 'but when, by means of the rotation of the feed-wheel J, this segment Z3 is brought opposite to the pawl it will move or lift the pawl out of engagement with the ratchet-teeth of the feed-wheel, and then the pawl will coact with the ratchet-teeth of said segment Z3,whereupon the pawlwill cease to impart any motion to the feed-wheel, but will impart an independent motion to the plate L. During this time the feed-wheel will be held against movement by friction. During the time that the feed-wheel is thus inert the barring-stitches will be made. Vhen the pawl has acted upon all the ratchet-teeth of the segment Z3, it moves back into engagement with the ratchet-teeth of the feed-wheel J. This of course will not happen until after the completion of the barring-stitches at one end of the buttonhole. After the completion of a set of barring-stitches the plate L will remain at rest until the pin j, which has previously been mentioned as imparting motion from the feed-wheel J to the gear-wheel or pinion E4, moves into contact with an opposite edge of the plate L. This action may be readily understood by reference to Fig. l.

Having now explained in detail the means for producing the dwell in Vthe feed mechan ism for moving the material in the direction permit of the forming of of the length of the buttonhole, I will proceed to describe the mechanism from which the change plate F derives its motion. The means for locking the change-plate to the vibrating plate may be best understood by reference to Fig. 4.

M designates a connectingrod,which is here shown as made in the form of a slide, which is provided with a hole for the reception of a pin, whereby it is connected with an oscillating frame or strap M', made in the form of a lever and cooperating with the change-cam M2.

The fulcrum of the lever M is a screw or pin m, fastened to a block m', adj ustably connected withv the vibrating plate. This block m is directly connected with a slide m2, which may beadj usted by means of a screw m3 for varying the width of the bight of a buttonhole, or, in other words, the space between the two rows of side stitches. At one end there is an opening in the leverh andin this opening works the change-cam M2, said cam being affixed to the stud e', and hence being ro tated with the feed-disk or gear-wheel E2.

The purpose of the change-cam M2 is to change the position of the change-plate relatively to the vibrating plate, this being done preparatory to the making of the long barringstitches, so that the material will be shifted to cause these barring-stitches to extend equally in both directions across the center line of the buttonhole. The cha-ngecam therefore will shift the lever M', and hence the change-plate F, relatively to the vibrating plate G at the termination of each row of side stitches.

The connecting-rod M is not permanently locked to the change-plate, but is onlylocked thereto during the formation of each row of side stitches and those stitches at the ends of the buttonhole, excepting the long barringstitches, the means employed in the present instance for lookin g it consisting of a bolt M4, which works transversely through one side of theshank f of the change-plate and into and out of a notch or recess which is formed transversely in the connecting-rod M. This bolt M4 is operated by means of an arm m4, affixed to a shaft M5, which is supported by means of a bracket M6, carried by the vibrating plate. The arm m4 has of course to pass through a slot or notch in the bolt M4, so as to permit of the independent movement of the change-plate.

Just before the beginning of either set of long barring-stitches the bolt M4 will be withdrawn from the connecting-rod M, and thus it will unlock the change-plate from said connecting-rod. As the change-cam makes one rotation for each buttonhole and only shifts the lever M at the completion of each row of side stitches, it follows that this cam maintains the connection between the vibrating plate and change-plate during the formation of each of the rows of side stitches. Because IOO IIO

of this the locking. and unlocking of the i M, by means of the bolt M4, practically amounts to .locking and unlocking the changeplate relatively to the vibrating plate.

Having now explained the means for 10.01- ing and unlocking the changefplate relatively to the vibrating plate, I will proceed Vto de,- seribe the means for operating lthe changeplate While it is unlocked from' the vibrating Plate- N designates a rod pivoted at one end upon a screw n, which enters a bracket fn'pnounted l .on and Carried bythe change-plate During the formationof each row of side stitches this rod N is inert, and in the present instance is supported in an elevated position byfmeans 0f an arm m5, affixed to the rock-,shaft M5. The Jdowin rznfiil movement of the rod N may be effected. by meansV of .the arm mi and a Spring n2, `fasti-nien to the underside of said rod and exteriring under .the arm mi, against the Under .side .of which arm m5 said spying n? forcibly presses. A screw nienters a tanned hole in the rod N and impinges against the arm mi, serving to adjust the relative dis.- tance between the rod and thearm. The rod N has a 11.015011 in the under side near its free ond, and this notch is Capable of engage ing with sa pin p4 on a lever N'.

The lever N is fulcrumed by means' ofa pin or stud n?, working in a bearing formed in a lug n.6, extended from the bedrplate K@ The fulcrum g' of the lever H Yoscillates the lever N', it being enabled to do this because said fulcrum is formed in an appurtenance engagement of the'rod N with the lever N' is.

effected after the completion of each row of side stitches when the change-plate has been adjusted by the change-cam properly to pre sent the material for the long loarrin g-stitches and yafter the change-plate has been unlocked from the vibrating plate.

The pin ntof the lever N' is, it will be seen, about twice as far from the fulcrum nof said lever as the pin or stud g' is from said fulcrum, and owing to this the pin or stud g' by its vibrations with the vibrating plate is enabled to impart about twice its own range of motion to the change-plate. Preferably the pin n4 will be fitted to a slide formed longitudinally in the lever N', so that it may be adjusted lengthwise of said lever to vary the length of the long barring-stitches.

It now remains to explain the means for controlling the rod N.

O designates a lever which is fulc'rumed by a pin or screw o to the bracket M6, and it is pivoted by a link O' to the arm m5, which` is affixed tothe rock-,shaft M5, Hence any oscillation of the lever O Will be imparted to the arm m5 and through thelatterto the rockshaft and the arm m4, which is affixed to the latter. With the arm m4 of the rock-shaft M5 is combined a spring S, one end of which is fastened to said arm and the other to an appurtenance of the base platev K; This spring so coacts with the parts as to normally hold the rod N in an elevated position and also to maintain the bolt M4 in position to p lock the change f plate to the connectingrod M.

The oscillation of the lever O against the resistance of the spring S, so as to Withdraw the bolt M4, and thereby effect the unlocking of thechange-plate and the connecting-rod M, and so also as to effectv the lowering of the rod N into engagement with the lever N', is effected by means of a cam 0.2, carried by the plate L. This cam will perform its work at the time the pawl J 2 is coacting with the segmentli of the plate L. p

By the mechanism which I have described a complete row of side stitches may first be formed. Then the change-plate will by the change-clam be shifted relatively to the vibrating plate, so as t0 cause barring-.stitches of the same length as the side stitches to be made progressively more and more to one side of the said row of side stitches until the last will be made .to extend equally across the center line of the buttonhole. Next, by unlocking the change-plateand giving it a greater range of vibration by means of the lever N barring-stitches substantially double the length of the side stitches may be made across `the center line of the buttonhole.

Will be made in the manner described, butV at the other end of the buttcnhole.

What I claim as my invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

1. In a buttonhole -sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of a cloth-.carrying plate, means for producing a relative feed between the stitching mechanism and the cloth-carrying plate, mechanism for producing a vibratory movement of the cloth-carrying plate for .the side stitches of the buttonhole, mechanism for producing a series of short barring-stitches progressively approaching and crossing the center line of the buttonhole at the extremities thereof and means for producing a vibratory movement of the cloth-carrying plate of greater amplitude for longer barring-stitches,substantially as specified.

2. In a buttonhole sewing machine the combination with stitching mechanism, of a cloth-carrying plate, means for producing a relative feed between the stitching mechan- IOO IIO

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ism and the cloth-carrying plate, mechanism for producing a vibratory movement of the cloth-carrying plate to form the side stitches of the buttonhole, mechanism for gradually changing the throw of the cloth carrying plate to permit the stitching mechanism to form a series of short barring-stitches gradually approaching and crossing the center line of the buttonhole at the extremities thereof, means for producing a vibratory movement of the cloth-carrying plate of greater amplitude than that occurring during the formation of the short barring-stitches or the side stitches, and mechanism for gradually chang- J ing the throw of the cloth-carrying plate to permit the stitching mechanism to form a return set of short barring-stitches gradually approaching and crossing the center line of the buttonhole at the extremities thereof, substantially as specied.

3. In a buttonhole-sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism of a plate for supporting the fabric in which the buttonhole is to be formed, a vibratory plate connected to the cloth -supporting plate through the change-plate, means for imparting to the vibratory plate the to-and-fro motion necessary for producing the side stitches of the buttonhole, a chan ge-plate to which the plate for supporting the fabric is secured and which moves at times with the vibratory plate, mechanism for varying the throw of the clothcarrying plate to permit the stitching mechanism to form a series of short barring-stitches gradually approaching and crossing the center line of the buttonhole at the extremities thereof, and mechanism for disengaging the change-plate from the vibratory plate and imparting to the former an independent vibratory movement of greater amplitude than the series of barring-stitches or the side stitches, substantially as specified.

4. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination of a plate for supporting the fabric in which the buttonhole is to be formed, mechanism for feeding this plate in the direction of the length of a buttonhole, mechanism for imparting to the plate a vibratory motion to form the side stitches of the'buttonhole, mechanism for changing the throw of the cloth-carrying plate to permit the stitching mechanism to form a series of short barringstitches progressively approaching and crossing the center line of the buttonhole at the extremities thereof, an independent mechanism for imparting to the plate a vibrator-y motion of greater amplitude to form a series of barring-stitches longer than the side stitches or short barring-stitches, means for changing the throw of the cloth-carrying plate to permit the stitching mechanism to form a return series of short barring-stitches gradually approaching and crossing the center line of the buttonhole, and means for suspendingthe lengthwise-feedin g movement during the formation of the longer barring-stitches, substantially as specified.

5. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of a plate for supporting the fabric in which the buttonhole is yto be formed, a vibratory plate, means for imparting to the vibratory plate the to-and-fro motion necessary for producing stitches, a change-plate to which the plate for supporting the fabric is secured and which moves at times with the vibratory plate, a change-cam mounted on the vibratory plate, a lever cooperating with the change-cam, a rod connecting with the lever, a bolt for engagin g said rod with and disengaging it from the change-plate, and mechanism for imparting to the change-plate, when the bolt has disengaged the rod therefrom, a vibratory movement of greater amplitude than that of the corresponding movement of the vibratory plate, substantially as and for the purpose set forth.

6. In a buttonhole sewing machine, the combination with stitching mechanism, of a plate for supporting the fabric in which the buttonhole is to be formed, a vibratory plate, means for imparting to the vibratory plate the to-and-fro motion necessary for producing stitches, a change-plate to which the plate for supporting the fabric is secured and which moves at times with the vibratory plate,mech anism which at times causes the change-plate to move with the vibratory plate and at other times releases it therefrom, a lever N', a stud adjustable lengthwise of said lever, and a rod N which is engaged through said stud with said lever N' when the aforesaid mechanism releases the change-plate from the vibratory plate, and which is disengaged from said lever N' when said mechanism causes the changeplate to move with the vibratory plate, substantially as specified.

'7. In a sewing-machine, a feed device, a rock-shaft for imparting motion to said feed device, an arm attached to said rock-shaft, and a cam-arm loosely mounted upon said shaft and adj ustably connected tothe arm on the shaft, substantially as specified.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in the presence of two subscribing witnesses.

JAMES T. HOGAN.

Witnesses:

ANTHONY GREF, S. A. PALMER.

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